Natural dyes embedded in the history of Mexico
Mexico has a rich and diverse landscape of natural beauty and ancient Mayan culture in some regions, as well as a history of making and creating brightly coloured textiles embedded with traditions. Oxaca and surrounding areas have managed to maintain their crafts and traditions not without its modern-day challenges.
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Designs have been woven into textiles using natural dyes sourced from the surrounding lands that are infused with stories and colours that reflect the elements of the surrounding landscapes.
Weaving traditions began as a means of necessity, and is now one of the most important traditions supporting the regions. The rich woven textiles including rugs, shawls, dresses and even pieces of fabric, are mostly handmade and more so hand woven.
The textiles are extremely colourful, which is very appealing, but there is a reason for the various colours and embroidery patterns - people wear different designs and colours depending on where they are from. These designs and patterns quite often tell a story and make for the distinction between each region.
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Most of the textiles are woven on one of two types of looms in these regions: backstrap or standing looms. Backstrap looms have been used in Mayan culture since pre-Hispanic times, when artisans used natural fibres such as cotton and silk. When the Spanish arrived in the 16th century, they brought large standing looms with them.
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Textiles are well-known for their intricate and colourful embroidery, in addition to handwoven fabrics. No machines are used, all embroidery is done by hand with a needle and thread, and there’s a lot of it. Every step of the creation process requires a significant amount of effort.
One of the most dramatic aspects of preparing materials for weaving or embroidery is the dyeing process.
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Textile artists in many countries are increasingly turning to natural dyes, both to revive ancient traditions and to avoid the environmental and health risks associated with synthetic dyes.
Weaving is still a source of income in the communities of Oxaca, Guatemala, and Cichiastengo. Some villages in these regions are involved in textile production, either directly or indirectly. Most make a living by selling their creations to tourists and other locals.
The majority of the yarns are dyed with natural materials such as fruits and vegetables grown and foraged from the surrounding land. Including marigold flowers, Cochineal insects, bark from trees and minerals from stones. This creates a variety of differing colours depending on the availability of the plant or where the materials used for the natural dye have come from.
When synthetic dyes were invented in the late 1800s, the textile industry was transformed with synthetic dyes more widely available over time. However, it wasn't until 1970 that things began to change. With the realisation of the toxicity of synthetic dyes, many artisans realised that the use of natural dyes was becoming extinct.
Natural dyes are more expensive and difficult to use than the chemical dyes that have largely replaced them, but they produce more vibrant colours and are safer and more environmentally friendly than their synthetic counterparts.
The natural dye process is a key feature of this traditional art form. Expert weavers use it to create the vibrant colours that are intrinsically associated with Mexican textiles.
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One of the natural dyes specific to this area include the Cochineal insect because of its brilliant red colour that has been used and is highly valued.
Cochineal is a small red insect that lives on the prickly pear cactus' pads.
The females produce carmine acid, which gives the dye its deep red colour. Locals have been harvesting insects from the cacti to dry them since the beginning. When the bugs have dried, they are crushed to expel the rich pigment needed to produce dye.
As with any natural dyes you can add different elements such adding an acid, or vinegar to create a different colour producing orange with this process for the Cochineal.
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You can make a variety of colours by combining the pigments in different ways. The art and traditions have been passed down from generation to generation, how one comes to know what plants and bugs to use is fascinating.
Everything used to make natural dyes is derived from nature. This practice has many advantages, it is a sustainable practice, with no toxins in the water or textiles, preservation of historic culture, as well as more vibrant colours.
The downfall of natural dyes is that, due to the lack of chemicals, natural dyes typically do not last as long as synthetic dyes, especially if left in the sun for an extended period of time.
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Many artisans are transitioning back to natural dyes in order to leave synthetic dyes behind for a more sustainable and healthy future.
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Their history is diverse, these weave patterns, colour combinations and motifs have and will continue to inspire designers around the world.
They have been able to maintain this artform with a rich history and tradition of natural dyes and weaving textiles in these regions supported and appreciated by tourists and people all around the globe.
It is important to keep the art of natural dyes, weave and traditions alive and valued for the skill and beauty it holds.