Hemp, a serious contender
Sustainability, is it just a buzzword that is thrown around or it is a real and tangible thing we can choose to participate in consciously? You can choose to source, specify and buy products in so many industries to contribute to a sustainable world. We all have a choice and with climate change not just considered a concept but finally recognised, based on all the scientific evidence submitted for decades now. It is time the textile industry looks at one of the most versatile options that is not only used for textiles but a multitude of sectors. In use for decades, Industrial Hemp is a sustainable fibre that can be turned into many products, one of which is a fabric that is soft, durable and versatile.
Fabric has been made from natural fibres for a long time. You’ll recognise some common plant based fibres like cotton, linen (flax), bamboo, sisal and jute, and there are others less well known such as tencel/rayon (made from wood pulp) and poplin. Then you have the animal based fibres like silk, wool, mohair, alpaca and camel. These are all biodegradable fibres that can go back into the land at end of life. These are more sustainable than man made fabrics such as polyesters and nylons which are petroleum-based and take thousands of years to biodegrade.
Whilst having been in use for a long time in developing countries hemp, affectionately known as ‘marijuana's sober cousin,’ got a bad rap from it’s cousins reputation and has not been widely used despite its versatility. It doesn’t help that it has been illegal to grow in a lot of countries around the world which limits its availability and keeps the price high. Despite this interest is on the rise for sustainability reasons like how little water it requires to grow, how durable its products are, and the different industries it can be used for. The textile industry is starting to see hemp being ordered from mills in commercial quantities and being made into garments for wardrobes, along with being specified for furniture in hotels, homes and workplaces. These are just some of the applications this versatile fibre can be made into.
Hemp (Cannabis sativa) also called industrial hemp is native to Central Asia but can grow in nearly every part of the globe. It is a super star of eco fabrics, it grows like a weed, uses virtually no pesticides, requires little weeding and is a super fast growing plant. The other precious commodity that it uses little of is water if any depending on where it's grown and what time of year. Hemp is so green it’s even being associated with providing carbon sequestration qualities, leaving the soil in better condition than before a crop was planted.
Photo by Ryan Ancill on Unsplash
This plant can be used in so many industries and historically has been most commonly used for fabrics, rope, paper and oils. Hemp used for making paper is naturally acid free and lasts longer than paper made from trees. A testament to its strength and durability, rope used on ships is made from this fibre. Some of the newer innovations for hemp include building materials, oil and chemical absorption materials for animal bedding, kitty litter. Hemp seeds have a nutty flavour and are very high in good oils. Hemp oil has been used throughout manufacturing industries to create paint, printing inks, solvents and cosmetics.
Hemp when used for textile production is harvested earlier, the plant is not left to go to seed as the fibre becomes more fibrous and therefore is not as soft. The benefits of using industrial hemp for fabric production include its strength that being three times the tensile strength of cotton, it is also lightweight and absorbent making it brilliant for towels. It’s easily blended with other fibers to produce different qualities and finishes. Industrial hemp is also great for outdoor applications as its weather resistant with UV and mould resistant properties.
The lingering association of hemp to hippies and sandpaper-like fabric, is an antiquated idea.
It’s high time for consumers and producers to see and make the most of the benefits of this amazingly versatile, sustainable and environmentally viable fibre.